Random pics from today + a cry for help

"Just Jeepin'" (macintux)
09/12/2020 at 18:37 • Filed to: Hoping I do not burn up my Jeep tonight

I’m going to shortly start swapping out a head unit that has apparently given its last, in exchange for a Bluetooth amplifier. (Thanks, btw, to the brilliant Oppo who suggested that my ongoing water+radio difficulties would go away if I went this route. Sorry I don’t remember who you are, but take a bow if you spot this.)

The problem is that I know diddly/squat about electronics. In fact, as I type this, I remember I have a gap in my plans: apparently to run this I should be drawing power directly from the battery, which means I need to incorporate a way to turn it off whenever I shut off the engine.

IIRC, t here is one accessory circuit in the Jeep that turns itself off with the engine, but I’m guessing with the amount of draw for this amp that I shouldn’t tie it into that circuit, even if I could find it. I seem to recall trying to trace it in the past for some other project and failing miserably.

So, Oppo hivemind, how should I do this? I’ll remove the head unit anyway tonight but probably wait for the amp until I know what’s next.

Here’s the amp I’m installing:

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And here’s the extra wiring I picked up to assist:

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Any and all suggestions on how to do this safely are welcome.

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Anyway, random pics from today.

This funkadelic orange (seriously, that’s what they call it on the sales page ) Eldorado Biarritz is a mere $7k. Grab it and impress your neighbors.

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I drove past a law office today and had to stop to appreciate the name.

There used to be an engineering firm on the northwest side of Indy: Alt & Witzig. I oft regret I never stopped in to verify that it wasn’t a joke. (If you’re unfamiliar with German and can’t guess: “Old & Witty” is a literal translation.)

Anyway, Klezmer Maudlin sounds like an Eastern European clown act, and the fact that they’re occupying a former bank, complete with drive-up window , doesn’t lend gravitas.

This is a friendly insect that was hanging out as I ran errands today; a big’n, as you can see from the second image.

And finally, despite being a frequent participant in the ancient art of Schadenfreude , I do have to wonder at the implications when the 1% start panicking. This doesn’t seem like a good sign, literally or figuratively.

DISCUSSION (18)

SBA Thanks You For All The Fish > Just Jeepin'
09/12/2020 at 18:42

“Piccassssos”

ClassicDatsunDebate > Just Jeepin'
09/12/2020 at 19:00

fintail > Just Jeepin'
09/12/2020 at 19:02

I know all the quality exotic cars, fine art, and fancy watches are sold through venues that advertise via yellow signs on vacant lots. I think the real 1% are doing as well as or better than they have in the past century.

Caddy could be priced worse, I guess. Those things sure looked old when the 79s rolled out.

jminer > Just Jeepin'
09/12/2020 at 19:11

I think that’s a generic sign to create interest in an auction company . I saw the same sign here months ago.

On the electronics side you can use that keyed output to trigger a relay which powers that amp. which pulls power from a larger circuit that is normally powered.

Not able to speak to the stereo wiring part specifically but that’s what I’d do to pull power more than a given circuit can give me.

415s30 W123TSXWaggoIIIIIIo ( •_•))°) > Just Jeepin'
09/12/2020 at 19:11

The bonnet might be bigger than my deck

VincentMalamute-Kim > Just Jeepin'
09/12/2020 at 19:16

I looked at the owner’s manual for your amp. It has a “Remote In” terminal that you do indeed connect to your “Ignition positve accessory circuit” wire to that terminal. That is a low current control wire, it doesn’t carry the current to power the amp.

The actual power and huge current goes through the large cable connected directly to your battery.

Easier and better. Your dead head unit plugs into your OEM radio harness. That harness should contain an “Ignition positive” circuit you can use. And your dead head unit was using for exactly this same purpose.

The internet will help you find which wire in the OEM harness is the “remote turn on ignition positive wire” . T he owner’s manual for your dead head unit will give the same info.

lone_liberal > Just Jeepin'
09/12/2020 at 19:16

Use a relay that has a switched 12v line as a trigger. That’s the main use for a relay, to let a low current line control a high current one.

RallyDarkstrike - Fan of 2-cyl FIATs, Eastern Bloc & Kei cars > Just Jeepin'
09/12/2020 at 20:40

No idea if this would work, but when I installed my OEM-style foglights into my Accent, I had the lights powered directly off the battery, but connected to the dash switch through a relay powered off the 12v socket because the 12v socket was switched with the ignition...

...could you just wire a relay to power the Bluetooth adapter off your 12v socket (IF your 12v socket DOES turn off with the ignition?)

Maybe I am misunderstanding...

Kiltedpadre > Just Jeepin'
09/12/2020 at 20:53

The continental kit screwed to the top of the trunk of the Eldorado is really unfortunate. I love 2-door land yachts more than most, but I couldn’t live with one with that. Yet, I’m perfectly fine with something similar on the 1959 Imperial.

Kinja'd!!!

Just Jeepin' > VincentMalamute-Kim
09/12/2020 at 21:27

Yep, thanks, it’s finally sinking in. I’m awfully old to still be this clueless about electronics, but I’m working on it.

Just Jeepin' > RallyDarkstrike - Fan of 2-cyl FIATs, Eastern Bloc & Kei cars
09/12/2020 at 21:28

As it turns out, I’m an idiot. Once I identify the power wire that my old head unit used, I can use it to control the amplifier, since the radio shut off with the Jeep.

I am interested in getting something to allow the power to stay on for a short while after I turn off the switch, I suppose a capacitor. But another time.

VincentMalamute-Kim > Just Jeepin'
09/12/2020 at 21:53

Don’t forget your old head unit had a “Power” wire that was always on to keep station memory alive. Don’t use that one.

It also had a “Ign +” wire that was used to turn the head unit on and off with the ignition switch. This is the wire you want to connect to the “Remote In” on your amp.

Agree, don’t worry about the delay. A capacitor is not going to power the amp for any significant amount of time. You need a delay circuit. Not difficult but as you say, for another time.

Just Jeepin' > VincentMalamute-Kim
09/12/2020 at 22:03

Good point on the two power connections , thanks. Could have easily screwed that up.

I’m baffled on how I can connect these huge 10 gauge power and ground wires to the amp, but I need to finish Crutchfield’s video. Such a great company.

Just Jeepin' > VincentMalamute-Kim
09/12/2020 at 22:24

Ah, apparently I get to solder two smaller gauge wires into a 10 gauge. Exciting.

VincentMalamute-Kim > Just Jeepin'
09/12/2020 at 22:32

That makes sense - two smaller wires are much easier to work with than one large wire.

Thisismydisplayname > Just Jeepin'
09/12/2020 at 22:44

The amp remote on off wire won’t draw much at all. Normally I ran mine in the RCA cables and it’s a small wire. No worries there.

Thisismydisplayname > Just Jeepin'
09/12/2020 at 22:48

The ground goes right to the body as close as you can to the amp, shorter the better. The hot power wire can be run all the way to the battery positive and put a fuse or circuit breaker right after the connection to the battery. Normally a 50-150 amp fuse. I use a 250amp circuit breaker on my truck to the amp power.

RallyDarkstrike - Fan of 2-cyl FIATs, Eastern Bloc & Kei cars > Just Jeepin'
09/13/2020 at 07:10

Ah, that makes things easier! :)